W251 R-Class EGR Issues

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  • Thread starterber5ien
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I was informed that some other people had the same problem and the only solution was to remove it or replace it with a genuine Mercedes part.
Any ideas why my aftermarket part isn't working?
Is a teaching procedure required after replacing or coding the ECU?
 
The values with the connector disconnected seem normal. The reference voltage is 5V and 12V for the EGR motor. But you need to check with the connector connected to make sure the problem is not in the ECU.

Many EGR system problems are never fixed because the system is quite complex, but it can be fixed.
Make sure the EGR cooler is not clogged.
Also check the MAF and air filters.
 
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Apparently the problem is also related to the use of a non-original (new) EGR system that I tried.
Just weird that anyone in my area had the same issues/error codes, tried 3 different EGRs and checked them all.
Installed OEM from Mercedes and the problem was solved.

I ordered another Wahler/OEM for my car so I will update again once I install it next week.
Possibly additional adaptation is required for aftermarket parts. I have only tried 3 cold starts (ignition on/off), apparently this should be enough for the ECU to recognize the values.
 
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Yeah, it's quite possible that the aftermarket version is crap. I hope the OEM version works!
 
In essence, the mass air flow sensor is used to calculate the EGR flow rate, so if there are any faults in the system, it is necessary to check the reliability of the MAF, the tightness of the exhaust and intake systems, the serviceability and cleanliness of the EGR valve itself, as well as the absence of tuning kits or CDI unit firmware settings. Also on OM642 there were cases when the inner casing of the corrugated pipe to the EGR valve came off, because of this the gas flow was uncontrollably reduced.
 
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Of course. That's why, unfortunately, many people try to remove it instead of fixing it.
 
The problem is probably the cost of restoration.
 
Another problem has arisen. Now it does not show any values?
Same thing with the new EGR. The funniest thing is that everything worked the other day, and the next day after another test drive everything disappeared.
Any other ideas about whether there is voltage on the pins?
4.1V, 5V and 12V.
 
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Check the wiring and Z-couplings Z13 and Z14.
 
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Sorry, I can't see it clearly. Is this some kind of connection point?
 

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